Tracy Schuhmacher|Democrat and Chronicle
Rochesterians like their Chicken French. That much is for sure.
After we published a story on Chicken French (or chicken franchese) being the most popular new recipe published in the New York Times this year, the response was enormous. More than 500 people posted their favorite place for Chicken French on our Facebook page, and readers flooded my in box with suggestions.
One question that was asked repeatedly: Is Chicken French really a Rochester thing? The answer is yes, mostly. Former food and drink reporter Karen Miltner traced the origin story in 2005.
Here are some keyfacts about the dish.
1. The "French" concept wasn't created here.
Vitello Francese is an Italian-American dish that was served in New York City after World War II, and is now served at restaurants around the country. When the dish made its way to Rochester, Rochesterians opted forthe American translation,Veal French.
2. Rochester brought the chicken and the popularity.
James Cianciola, who was also known as Chef Vincenzo, served Veal French at the Brown Derby, a restaurant on Monroe Avenue in Brighton. After anti-veal picketers urged a boycott of the restaurant in the 1970s, Cianciola put Chicken French on the menu. It was a popular offering, and the restaurant added Artichoke French, Cauliflower French, HaddockFrench and so on.
Other Rochester restaurants followed suit, and the dish is now ubiquitous on Rochester restaurant menus.
3. There's a debate about a main ingredient.
Sherry or wine in the sauce? That is a debate among home cooks and chefs alike.
The Cianciola brothers used an assertive sherry in their sauce, according to Miltner's story. Others — including the one from Proietti's in Webster, below, use a dry white wine.
4. Rochester chefs wrote the book on Chicken French.
Nate Cianciola, along with his brother, James, wrote a book calledFrenching Food Italian Style, highlighting 73 recipes from the Brown Derby including Veal French.
It is available on Amazon.com and BarnesandNoble.com.
5. You can even get a vegan French.
Elizabeth McDade emailed that when she switched to a vegan diet, one of the dishes she missed most was "French," especially artichokes.
She was able to get her fix atCinelli's Pizza Ristorante,840 Long Pond Road in Greece. It is "TRULY delicious and hits all the right notes," McDadesaid.
A Rochester Chicken French Recipe
While Julia Moskin's recipe inthe New York Times recipehits all the right notes,here's a localrecipe courtesy of Webster restaurateur Whitey Proietti. It wasoriginally published in the Democrat and Chronicle in 2005, and readers have indicated that it's still afavorite.
Ingredients
• 1 cup flour
• Pinch of salt and black pepper
• 6 eggs
• 6 tablespoons milk
• 2 heaping tablespoons grated Romano cheese
• 1 1/2 teaspoons dried parsley flakes or 1 tablespoon fresh chopped parsley
• 2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts
• 2 cups vegetable oil
• 2 cups white wine (Proietti recommends Chablis)
• Juice of 1/2 lemon
• 1 tablespoon chicken base
• 6 tablespoons butter
Instructions
1. In a wide, shallow bowl, mix together flour, salt and pepper. Set aside.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together eggs, milk, cheese and parsley. Set aside.
3. Tenderize chicken with ridged surface of meat pounder. Place chicken between two pieces of wax paper and pound to about 1/4-inch thickness. Dredge each piece in flour mixture, then dip in egg mixture, coating well. Let chicken sit in egg mixture while heating oil.
4. In a medium frying pan, heat the oil over high heat until very hot. To check if oil is ready, drip a bit of egg mixture in the oil. If it sizzles before it hits the bottom, it is ready.
5. Place breasts in single layer in oil and saute on medium-high heat until gold brown around all of the outside edges, about 2 to 3 minutes. Use tongs to make sure the chicken doesn't stick to the bottom of the pan. Turn each breast and cook another 2 minutes or so, or until breast is golden brown. Discard oil and move chicken to outside edges of pan.
6.Pour in wine, lemon juice, chicken base and butter. Stir and simmer 3 to 4 minutes, or until slightly reduced and there is no strong alcohol taste left. Transfer chicken to a serving plate, cover with sauce and serve immediately.
Makes 4 servings.
More: Restaurant review: Proietti's offers home-style comfort
