For Christians in Kerala, Easter is a lot more than the long weekend, shopping and yummy non-veg food. Though the customs followed during the Holy Week aren’t engraved in the Bible, many cherished Easter traditions have been followed around the world for centuries. While it’s drenching one another with water in Poland and reading crime novels in Norway, Malayali Christians celebrate by eating Kozhukatta and drinking Kaippuneeru.
With the advent of each generation, as the elders are always fond of lamenting, the traditions and rituals followed for religious festivals keep getting diluted down to the bare minimum.
Yet, there are families that stick to tradition and observe every ritual with care.
During the Holy Week, as the world prepares to celebrate the resurrection of Jesus Christ, we examine the significance of each day of the week leading up to Easter, as well as some of the interesting traditions followed in various parts of Kerala.
Lent and the Holy Week
The 40 days’ Lent commemorates the days Jesus spent fasting in the desert when he endured the temptation by Satan. Octogenarian Mariama Mani from Poovarani, Pala, says that Christians across the state prepare themselves for Easter through prayers, self-denial, giving alms and repenting their sins. “Discipline is very important, at spiritual, emotional and physical levels. We give up all luxuries – from non-vegetarian dishes to having physical relationship with one’s partner,” she adds.
The Holy Week comprises Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday and is the last week of Lent. Retired headmistress Olakengil Mary explains that the Holy Week begins on Palm Sunday and includes Spy Wednesday, Maundy Thursday, Good Friday and Holy Saturday. “Palm Sunday is observed in memory of Jesus’ triumphal entry into Jerusalem, where he was welcomed by the natives, with the waving of olive branches. The days preceding Thursday are reserved for remembering the anointing of Jesus at Bethany, his predictions about his own death and Judas planning his betrayal with the high priests,” she explains.
Maundy Thursday
It is the day that honours the Last Supper of Jesus with his 12 apostles on which the Eucharist is modelled. The Christians reminisce about what Jesus had said and done at the Last Supper. “Every Christian household will carry out the ritual of cutting the pesaha appam on Pesaha Vyazham. The eldest member of the family cuts it and distributes it among the amongs, along with Peseha Paalu,” says Mary.
This day will also witness the washing of the feet of parishioners in the churches, symbolising the way Jesus washed his disciples’ feet. “Morning mass will not be held on this day and only the Mass of the Lord’s Supper will be conducted in the evening,” Mariama adds. The alter bells will remain silent on this day.
Good Friday
It is the day of mourning. Dukha Velli for Malayalis, this day commemorates the crucifixion of Jesus and his death at Calvary. “We observe fast on this day and leave for the church early in the morning where we remember Jesus’ suffering, the Way of the Cross and his crucifixion. At the church, we will be given kaipuneeru made of the juice of panal tree leaves and vinegar. A bell made of wood (maramani) is rung during the rituals.” Mary says.
The fasting goes hand in hand with complete abstinence. “We have only one meal and bittergourd will be the important ingredient in it. We abstain from doing anything entertaining including watching TV, reading books or listening to music. Elders will read Puthen Paana, the first Malayalam Christian poem written by Arnos Pathiri, a German missionary,” says Marykutty Thomas Parekkat from Pala.
Holy Saturday
The Holy Saturday falls between the crucifixion of Jesus (Good Friday) and His resurrection (Easter). “We call it the day of Sabbath. Mass isn’t held in our churches and we wait symbolically at Jesus’ tomb, praying and fasting. It is also called the day of bereavement. We clean our houses and prepare ourselves to invite Jesus into our homes. We sprinkle holy water from the church in our homes,” explains Marykutty.
As it is the last day of the Lent, preparations start for the big feast.
Easter Sunday
The real celebration begins with an Easter Vigil the night before. On Easter Eve, the resurrection of Jesus is celebrated. It is the culmination of Passion of the Christ (final period in the life of Jesus).
Angamaly native, Betty Varghese, assistant executive engineer, Kalady Sankrit University, says, “By around 10 pm on Saturday night, the entire family will leave for church to attend the mass. Our kitchens will be filled with non-vegetarian delicacies and as we return from the mass, we break the Lent and relish all the food.” At church, wine and a piece of cake will be served to mark the beginning of the celebrations and also the end of the Lent.
The dishes prepared on this day vary in different parts of Kerala. “For Palakkar, appam and egg curry is a must for breakfast while for lunch, they cook beef ularth and chicken curry. But people in Alappuzha prepare dishes with duck. They break the Lent having duck roast and palappam. When it comes to the Angamaly area, they prefer pork and rice while in northern areas, mutton stew is served in the morning,” she says.
Octave of Easter
It starts from the Easter Sunday and runs until the Sunday following Easter. “This is the time when new-born babies are baptised. The Sunday after the Easter is also known as St Thomas Sunday, which recounts the story of Christ appearing to Apostle Thomas, in order to dispel his doubts about the Resurrection,” says agriculturalist Justin Jose from Wayanad.
The Holy Week, Kerala style
Reading out puthen paana
The first Christian poem written in Malayalam by German missionary Arnos Pathiri, it narrates the life of Jesus Christ. The part which deals with the crucifixion of Christ is read out aloud in homes on Good Friday.
Drinking kaipuneeru
This bitter tasting drink which is served for Good Friday is a reminder of the drink made of vinegar mixed with gall offered to Jesus by the soldiers before his crucifixion. The Kerala version of the drink is made out of vinegar and the juice of panal (a shrub) tree leaves.
Ringing of maramani
The sound of the church bell is often considered as a symbol of happiness and joy. Since Jesus' crucifixion isn't a happy event, there will no usual ringing of bells in churches. Until Jesus was crucified, the Jews used to ring a wooden bell mocking those who were crucified, as in those days, crucifixion was a punishment reserved for criminals. However, after the death of Jesus, the wooden bell is rung in churches on Good Friday, in memory of the crucifixion.
Perparing Kozhukatta
This sweet dumpling is made on Palm Sunday in every Christian home in Kerala to commemorate Jesus’s visit to Lazarus, Martha and Mary’s house. It is believed that love is stuffed inside the snack as it is made of sweetened grated coconut wrapped in a pancake made of rice flour.
Thamukku Nercha
Malayalis of all religions travel to Kuravilangad, Kottayam, on Palm Sunday (Oshana Njayar) to be part of the Thamukku Nercha offered in Kalathur Martha Mariyam Church. During the festival, this sweet dish made of jaggery, cooked rice, grated coconut and banana is served. It was started off as an offering to Mother Mary to do away with troubles the villagers faced, years back.
Indriyappam and Peseha Paalu
The peseha appam or Indriyappam, which is made of unfermented rice flour, is prepared on Maundy Thursday in memory of the Last Supper. It is cooked directly on a flame in the central parts of Kerala while it is steamed in other parts of the state. It is served along with Peseha Paalu, which is made out of jaggery and coconut milk.
