Home & Garden|WHAT MAKES A GREAT COOK GREAT?
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By Bryan Miller
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JUST as certain people have physical and temperamental characteristics that make them good marathon runners, or pianists, or bar bouncers, others have what it takes to become superior cooks. These individuals are often described as possessing a ''flair,'' a ''sixth sense,'' a ''magic touch'' -something special that elevates any food they prepare, whether poached eggs or poitrine de veau, into a sublime experience.
What distinguishes these people from other well-intentioned cooks? Are certain individuals born with such talent or is it merely a matter of education? What exactly is the ''right stuff'' in the kitchen? Answers to these questions were sought recently from nearly two dozen respected chefs, cooking teachers and authors, and while responses were as varied as a Chinese menu, a strong consensus arose in certain areas.
The qualities of an exceptional cook are akin to those of a successful tightrope-walker: an abiding passion for the task, courage to go out on a limb and an impeccable sense of balance.
''If you don't have that love, and by that I mean appreciation and love for the ingredients, you are not going to do anything,'' said Leon Lianides, owner and creative force behind the Coach House restaurant in Manhattan. ''It's like being a musician. You can teach anybody to play the piano, but there are those special few who really bring out the melody.''
Lydie Pinoy Marshall, a cookbook author and cooking teacher in New York, described one of her former students as an example of a person with the makings of an extraordinary cook.
''She was someone who got visibly excited when she had food in front of her,'' Mrs. Marshall recalled. ''All her senses, particularly taste and smell, were involved.''
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