Lievito Madre (2024)

Bread making traditions in Italy commonly start with a sourdough starter called “pasta madre” or “lievito madre”. This is a firm sourdough starter maintained at around 50% hydration and is continuously propagated with daily refreshments. The wet style starter is not so typical with professionals but has shown some adoption in modern times, mostly by home bakers but also with particular commercial operations. Maintenance and the specific parameters of the “madre” vary according to the practice of the maestro but is typically rebuilt at a 1:1 (madre:flour) ratio at least once a day.

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Characterised by a microbiota consisting of yeasts (Kazachstania / Saccharomyces) and lactic acid bacteria (LAB) of which the typically dominant species Fructilactobacillus sanfranciscensis (formerly Lactobacillus sanfranciscensis) is hetero-fermentative and produces lactic acid, acetic acid, ethanol and CO2.

Warm temperatures above 25°C promote the ideal balance of acids; 4 parts lactic to 1 part acetic ideal for sweet leavened pastries. At cool room temperatures a balance of 3:1 (lactic:acetic) is ideal for bread.

Conservation / Maintenance:

To ensure viability, the madre should be rebuilt at least once a day while being held at a temperature of 15-18°C. Or once a week if refrigerated to around 4°C.

There are two common techniques for the conservation during this period.

  • Bound. The lievito madre is wrapped in cloth and tied with rope.
  • In water. The lievito madre is placed directly into a bowl of cold water.

When conserved in a volume of water the LM will rise to the surface and be exposed to the air (more aerobic conditions) however, acidity accumulates more slowly as it is lost to the surrounding water. Conversely the binding method creates an anaerobic environment which stimulates hetero-lactic fermentation and can lead to higher levels of acidity, however as the generated CO2 is trapped the pH decreases more rapidly and limits bacterial growth.

Rinfreschi / “Refreshments” :

For production the madre is “refreshed” by adding flour and water and allowed to leaven at temperatures between 25-30°C the ideal being 27/28°C for approx. 3-4 hours. This may be done one or more times in succession. This operation allows the baker to build enough mass to leaven large batches of dough. Normally the madre is refreshed once or twice before making bread. But more enriched doughs like Panettone may require at least three or more refreshments to leaven correctly. Importantly after building the leaven a piece is reserved, and is allowed to rise slowly overnight, this becomes the new mother for the next day.

Refreshed LM pH optimum: 4.1-4.5. But will vary according to formula and maintenance method.

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Lavaggio – “Washing” / Bagnetto:

After the overnight rise or any long period of storage the madre may be washed to remove excess acidity and revitalise the yeasts. Referred to as ‘lavaggio’ or ‘bagnetto’ this technique involves slicing or breaking the madre into small pieces about 1cm thick and placing them into a bath of sweetened water. To prepare the bagnetto table sugar is added at a dose of 2g/L to a volume of water at least 3 times the mass of the madre. The dough pieces are allowed to soak for typically around 20-30 minutes before being wrung out and weighed and mixed with flour and water in accordance with a refresh.

The typical temperature of the water used is about 20°C as per Massari and others. But the bath may also be done using very warm (38°C) water as is the case according to the methods described by Rolando Morandin.

Typical daily build procedure:

0930 Mother (pH 3.7-4.1), lavaggio (20 minutes)
1000 Refresh
1400 Refresh
1800 Refresh – Storage, 12-16hrs @ 15-18°C

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More info:

Il rinfresco del lievito madre (Alfonso Pepe) | ItaliaSquista
Lievito madre, ricetta di Iginio Massari | Dissapore

A selection of articles from DolceSalato: Text in Italian:

  1. Natural yeast: from theory to practice (Part I)
  2. Natural yeast: from theory to practice (Part II)
  3. Natural yeast: from theory to practice (Part III)
  4. Natural yeast: from theory to practice (Part IV)

Conservation method per pastry chef / baker

madre…
Iginio Massaribound / legato
Achille Zoiabound / legato
Carlo Pozzabound / legato
Giovanni Pinabound / legato
Leonardo Di Carlobound / legato
Massimo Vitalibound / legato
Francesco Favoritobound / legato
Piergiorgio Giorilliin water / in acqua
Rolando Morandinin water / in acqua
Renato Boscoin water / in acqua
Francesco Elmiin water / in acqua
Sara Papain water / in acqua
Alfonso Pepein water / in acqua
Lievito Madre (2024)

FAQs

What is the meaning of lievito madre? ›

Literally translated, Lievito Madre means „mother yeast“ and is the epitome of a mild-aromatic sourdough, which is especially strong in proof.

What is the difference between sourdough and lievito madre? ›

How Is Pasta Madre Different From A Sourdough Starter? Pasta Madre or "Mother Dough" is a classed as a "stiff starter" and is somewhat different to a traditional liquid sourdough starter. It has a much lower hydration and also uses honey to sweeten the starter.

What is lievito madre used for? ›

Lievito madre procedure

Natural yeast is used in the production of bread specialties, such as ciabatta, pizza, focaccia and sweet leavened products such as croissants, brioches and Panettone. Since it is a natural Mother Yeast, baked goods require a little more patience in preparation.

How often do you feed lievito madre? ›

A typical lievito madre needs to be fed at least once every two days (if left at room temperature) and at least once every five days (if kept in the fridge). Before feeding, allow the lievito madre to come to room temperature (if it had been stored in the fridge).

Is lievito baking soda? ›

Baking soda is called bicarbonata di sodio and is not in the baked goods section, but rather in the cleaning section of the grocery stores. I find it in a box, but you sometimes find it in a round container too. You can probably also find it in a pharmacy. Baking powder is called Lievito Instantaneo.

What is the oldest mother dough? ›

It's difficult to know which sourdough starters are actually the oldest. Blackley's sourdough starter, created from 4,500 year-old yeast, is considered the oldest sourdough starter, per Oldest. Other starters like the Saint Honoratus Wheat also are quite old.

How to maintain a lievito madre? ›

Conservation / Maintenance:

To ensure viability, the madre should be rebuilt at least once a day while being held at a temperature of 15-18°C. Or once a week if refrigerated to around 4°C.

What is lievito used for? ›

Lievito Secco is an Italian, instant dry, dehydrated brewer's yeast, made from only the best fresh beer yeast. Used by professional chefs, and for home baking purposes Lievito Secco is widely used as a rising agent for any kind of dough such as pizzas, bread, or pastries.

What is mother yeast in Italian? ›

The “Mother-dough” (in Italian, lievito madre) is also known in the UK as Wild yeast. This is the most ancient leavening agent used by humanity.

What type of yeast is Caputo lievito? ›

Obtained from Italian molasses (a particular type of sugar obtained from beet and sugar cane) our yeast dies completely at 58 °C. Therefore, it is easily digestible unlike chemical yeasts which may collapse due to long fermentation.

What is the mother dough called? ›

Mother dough, also known as pre-ferment or sourdough starter, is the basis of a loaf of bread.

What is the Italian name for sourdough starter? ›

Italian Sourdough Starter – Lievito Madre Recipe is made a little bit different then the more well known version. This is a lower hydration starter which also takes longer to produce. But it is well worth it.

What is the best flour for sourdough starter? ›

The best flour blend for creating a new sourdough starter is 50% whole-meal flour (whole wheat or whole rye) and 50% bread flour or all-purpose flour. I recommend a 50/50 mix of whole wheat flour and bread flour. Why do you need to use these two types of flour?

How do you keep sourdough mother alive? ›

So, to recap, here's how we're keeping our sourdough starter alive. Store it in the fridge when you aren't using it. Feed it once every week or so, and always right before you bake a loaf of bread. Put it back in the fridge after you've fed and used it.

Can I feed my sourdough every day? ›

Maintaining your sourdough starter in the refrigerator

For most home bakers, daily feeding is impractical; so you'll need to store your starter in the refrigerator and feed it once a week.

What language is lievito? ›

Translation of lievito – Italian–English dictionary

I lieviti sono largamente diffusi in natura. Yeasts are found throughout nature.

What is lievito Fresco in English? ›

Lievito di birra fresco translated is live/fresh brewer's yeast I believe.

What is lievito naturale in English? ›

Mother yeast , also called natural yeast, acid yeast, sourdough, natural leavening, natural leavening dough, mother dough: is a mixture of flour and water acidified by a combination of yeast and lactic acid bacteria that start fermentation of bakery or pastry dough.

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